I dunno if this is still going on - possibly it was terminated after our somewhat dismal pieces. But I thought maybe we should up the level here to maybe L4 or L5 (JC or Uni), so here's my Let's Go Turkey with vocab.
I started off this trip with some
trepidation, having never gone solo before. But I thought it would be an interesting experience, and my expectations were fulfilled despite it being a tad bit too long. I started off in Istanbul but skipped the city and moved straight to the famous Troy from the town of Canakkale. There wasn't much left of the
venerated site of the Iliad (Note: famous epic written by Homer about the battle of Troy) save a few scattered, mournful-looking pieces of rock and some walls. Still, it was nice soaking in the atmosphere of this legendary city.
Next was Ephesus, a more intact set of ruins that were really quite nice. I went early, so I got them all to myself for the first part of the morning, and it was great fun roaming around, clambering all over the colosseum (Note: ancient theatre used to stage fights) and the fallen blocks of marble. But later on hordes of tourists arrived, swarming in like a noisy
bunch of buggers (Note: alliteration) and I beat a hasty retreat. I also paid a quick visit to the Temple of Artemis, virgin goddess of hunt. It was supposed to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, but again, not much was left of it.
Then I made my way inland to Pamukkale to see the wondrous white terraces and Hierapolis, yet another (the last) set of ruins. During this part of the trip I traveled with a mainland Chinese, a companion I'd met in Selcuk, the town from which I'd explored Ephesus. It was good traveling with someone as it relieved the loneliness that had set in. The calcium terraces were a
pristine white and quite wondrous. It was evident though that years of tourism were starting to erode away at the formation. Hierapolis, like Ephesus, was dominated by a colosseum. It was much bigger, with buildings stretching across quite a large expanse and once again I had fun
traversing the rolling hills upon which the city had been founded.
Following that I parted ways with my erstwhile companion in Cappadocia, specifically the city of Goreme. Without summer and the tourists it heralded to provide energy and life, it was a sleepy, quite quiet place - the hostel I slept in had only me, and they were unwilling to turn on the heating, so it was a pretty cold night. Cappadocia is famous for fascinating rock formations caused apparently by differential erosion (leading generally to either
phallic or
mammarian motifs) and the churches which were carved into them by Christians who were under persecution by some emperor or other. I watched a whirling dervish performance, which was interesting, and also joined a tour which took us to an underground city which was quite a
claustrophobic experience. I should also mention at this point that there were quite a number of Japanese tourists, and that for most of the trip, the Turks kept thinking I was Japanese and saying konichi-wa to me. A Korean girl also mistook me for a Korean and asked me some stuff which rather confused me. In the end I had to say I didn't understand, following which I understood that she wanted me to help her take a picture.
The most intense part of the trip was probably Mt. Nehmrut. I'd been told not to go, and that it would be a waste of money, but I guess this leg captures what the whole Turkey thing was about: it was quite dangerous, done on a whim, and I forced myself to go through with it to prove some point. I had to scale this rather steep rock-face (falling from which would have landed me in
some serious shit) and it was quite scary at times, having had to use all four limbs and stuff. Then I tracked through the blistering cold and falling snow to find the vaunted statues
buried in f***ing snow. At that point, I let out a bitter laugh, a recognition of my foolishness and acceptance of the situation I had driven myself into. And to top things, I had been charged an
exorbitant price to drive me up to the place. This part of the trip made me think rather badly of the Turks, made me see them as money-grubbing assholes rather than the warm, friendly people they really are.
This latter change of perceptions was incited by the arduous 20h bus-ride to Istanbul, during which two young Turks talked to me. One of them was a kofte-seller (Note: kofte is a scrumptious meatball made from lamb, chicken or beef), the other a policeman. They showered gifts on me for no apparent reason, buying me some bread, giving me a worry-bead, a broken watch and the old Turkish lira (Note: Turkey abandoned their previous currency, removing the 6 0s that had appeared due to runaway inflation) for 50 cents, or 500 000. And this was a sign of things to come, for when I arrived in Istanbul, I plunged straight into the absolutely incredible Turkish cuisine. These people work with a handicap, having no pork and not so much beef, but even so they have some of the best meats (in small, palatable chunks rather than the large slabs you get further west) and delightful desserts I've ever tried. Kebabs, kofte, kokorec (lamb entrails), lokum (the famous Turkish delight) - I was drowning in delicious food. One of the criteria against which I judge a civilisation is its culinary culture: ceteris paribus, a culture that knows how to cook and eat is more advanced than one that does not. So naturally my opinion of Turkish culture is rather high.
In Istanbul, I visited Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. They were all grand, the equivalent of the majestic churches in Europe; the Topkapi Palace reminded me more of the Forbidden Palace in Beijing in terms of
lavish splendour and
ostentatious grandeur - maybe Eastern cultures are more into the whole opulence thing? And maybe cleanliness too - they seem to enjoy exotic baths (which I tried in a Turkish hamam, the one where they filmed Indiana Jones!) too. But sadly the feeling I was looking for, the Constantinople (Note: capital of the Eastern Roman and Byzantium empire) feel, could not be found in Istanbul. Maybe it had spent too long under the Ottomans, or become too touristy, but I found none or little of the Byzantine glory and grandeur that had drawn me there in the first place. Even so, Istanbul was great, though I spent too long there (5 days). When you have experiences like the one I'm about to narrate, you probably have overstayed a little.
I was sitting on a bench in front of the Blue Mosque when a middle-aged Turk motioned me over to his bench. I went over and we entered the usual conversation starters - where're you from, Singapore, traveling alone, yes, no girlfriend, no. (All the Turks I talked to were really concerned about this for some reason, and were somewhat outraged when I told them I didn't have one.) Then, "Do you like girls?" "Sure, I like girls." "You like to f*** girls?" "Uh...I guess..." So we went into what types - Europeans, according to him, know how to have sex etc. Well, comfortable ground for me and soon he had his arm around me in a friendly fashion. But then his next question came quite suddenly. "You like to f*** boys?" Woah. "Uh, no, not really..." "I like to f*** boys." And he made this hole thingy with his thumb and index finger, then transforms into a thumbs-up motion. Sensing my surprise, he quickly justified. "I'm not gay, I like to f*** girls. But I like to f*** boys too. Sometimes." "Oh. Ok." After asking a little about the gay scene in Turkey, I said I had to go, and as they say in the army,
six o'clock back to track. It's a pretty vibrant place sexually too I guess.
In all Turkey was a good experience in terms of traveling alone. My style of tourism involves exploring the culture (especially gastronomical aspects) and seeing as many key sites as possible. So I supposed it worked out quite well - I felt that I'd seen most of the best of what Turkey had to offer, and experienced as much of Turkey as I could within the time I had.